Egypt
The use of gold jewelry can be dated back to
Egypt 3000 BC. Gold was the preferred metal for jewelry making during
ancient times. It was rare, it was easy to work with, and it never
tarnished.
Magnificent bracelets, pendants, necklaces, rings,
armlets, earrings, collars, and head ornaments were all produced in
ancient Egypt, the land of the Pharaohs. In 1922 Howard Carter's
excavations led to the discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb and many gold
artifacts, all showing the art work of ancient Egypt.
Greece
In
ancient Greece, gold beads in the shape of shells, flowers and beetles
were very common. In Northern Greece beautiful necklaces and earrings
have been excavated from burial.
By 300 BC the Greeks were using
gems such as emeralds, garnets, amethysts and pearls. They also created
colored glass stones and enamel stones. Carved agate cameos and gold
filigree work were widely made.
Italy
The Italian
Etruscans produced granulated textured gold work. They made very
large, necklaces, bracelets and earrings. They were also known for
producing hollow gold pendants that were filled with perfume. Even
today the Italians are still known for the quality gold jewelry.
Rome
The
Romans used 18 and 24 carat gold for their coins. Coinage gold was
readily available so it was popular with craftsmen for decorative
jewelry. Over 2000 years ago the Romans were using sapphires, emeralds,
garnets, and amber in their jewelry.
Europe.
During the
13th century the Medieval Sumptuary Laws were enacted which put a cap on
luxurious jewelry and clothing. The town folk of France, banned from
wearing girdles made from pearls or any other gemstone.
They were
also banged from wearing gold or silver. Similar laws existed in
England banning artisans from wearing gold and silver. These laws show
how fine jewelry had spread beyond nobility to the town folk.
For
as long as mankind has existed gems and jewels have been used as token
of ones love for another. While many pieces of jewelry existed adorned
with fine gems and made from precious metals, there was also some very
good fake jewelry.
True gemstones and pearls originated in the
east and they were bought mainly by the Italians. The Italian merchants
then sold the jewelry to the Europeans.
High quality glass
imitations were often used and sold with the intent to deceive. These
high quality glass stones were often used in the Royal funeral robes and
in children's jewelry.
Valued more than gemstones, were the
flawless, round, natural white pearls. South India provided some of the
finest pearls. The Italians were able to make quality imitation glass
gems and pearls that could only be identified by a gemologist.
There
is historical proof that recipes for false pearls existed as far back
as 1300. White powdered glass was mixed with albumen and snail slime to
produce imitation pearls.
Earrings and Dress Jewelry
During
the 17th century woman always wore earrings, whether they were dressed
or undressed. It was very acceptable to wear faux pearls and paste gem
earrings during the day saving fine diamond jewelry and gem jewelry for
evening attire.
Dress ornamentation decreased in size. Sleeves or skirts were often decorated with matching brooches.
During
the 16th it was very fashionable to wear large quantities of pearls.
Both jewelry to clothing accessories were adorned with pearls.
During
the 17th century Jaquin of Paris patented a method of making fake
pearls. Hollow blown glass balls were coated with varnish mixed with
iridescent ground fish scales. The hollow balls were then filled with
wax to strengthen them. This discovery made Paris the main producer of
faux pearls for well over 200 years.
Paste is a compound of glass
containing white lead oxide and potash. Paste jewelry was very common
in the later part of the 17th century. The highest quality and most
long lasting paste jewelry was produced after 1734 by Georges Strass.
Paris
lead the production of faux gems [paste] and faux pearls. Just about
any kind of fake gem could be made, including fake opals.
After
1760 the production of fake jewelery spread to London and to Birmingham.
During the industrial revolution steel was produced in large
quantities so it was easily available. It was ues for setting marcasite
and jasper ware cameos. Glass and Wedgwood porcelain paste cameos were
made in English factories and were also very popular.
The fashion
from this era also included ornate shoe buckles of paste, steel and
tin, elaborate paste jewel buttons, as well as semi precious for day
wear.
Empire Jewelry
In 1804 Napoleon emerged as Emperor of France, resulting in a revival of jewelry and fashion as a new court of pomp.
'Joailliers' worked fine jewelry and 'bijoutiers' used less precious materials.
'Joailliers' worked fine jewelry and 'bijoutiers' used less precious materials.
The
members of the new French imperial family had the former French royal
family gems re-set into the latest neo-classical style. The new trends
soon found their way to Europe, particularly England. The main
influence for design was the Greek and Roman.
Parures and Cameos
Parures
were a matching suite of coordinating precious gems which could include
a necklace, a comb, a tiara, a diadem, a bandeau, a pair of bracelets,
pins, rings, drop earrings or and cluster stud earrings and possibly a
belt clasp.
A full parure consisted of a minimum of four pieces. A
demi parure consisted of three or less pieces. Both Josephine and
Napoleon's second wife had magnificent parures.
Once Napoleon's
cameo decorated coronation crown was seen, cameos became the rage.
Cameos were carved from hard stone, conch shells and even from Wedgwood
porcelain.
Victorian Jewelry
In 1837 when Queen
Victoria came to the throne jewelry was romantic and nationalistic. It
focused on European folk art, which later influenced the Arts and Crafts
Movement. Until mid century most western jewelry came from Europe, with
some jewelry being produced in North America and Australia.
Mass
production of mid Victorian jewelry in Birmingham, Germany and
Providence, Rhode Island resulted in lower jewelry standards. Victorian
women rebelled when they saw some the poor quality of much of this
machine made jewelry.
Woman rebelled by wearing no jewelry at all,
or buying from the emerging artist craftsman. Some jewelers like
Tiffany recognized a niche market and began to make fine jewelry of a
very high standard, opening shops in main European cities.
Mourning Jewelry
During
the Victorian era mourning jewelry was very fashionable. The initial
months of mourning were unadorned by jewelry of any kind. As the
mourning rituals increased, mourning jewelry developed as a fashion
item. Queen Victorian wore a great deal of jet mourning jewelry after
Prince Albert's death.
Jet from Whitby, North of England was set
into mourning pieces. All types of material that were black were used
and almost all included a lock of the dead loved one's hair. Hair was
also plaited, braided or twisted very tightly until it became hard and
thread like.
Arts and Crafts Jewelry
During the 1870s
the Arts and Crafts movement evolved as a reaction to mass produced
shoddy goods and inferior machine made products which were a result of
the industrial revolution.
William Morris and John Ruskin were
both leaders of the arts and crafts movement in England. They promoted
simple Arts and Crafts of designs based on floral, primitive or Celtic
forms worked as wallpapers, furniture and jewelry.
The polished stones used in Arts and Crafts jewelry gave a medieval, simpler, gentler, tooled hand made look and feel to items.
Art Nouveau
The
Art Nouveau followed the arts and crafts movement resulting in a new
jewelry look. The movement began in Paris and its influence went
throughout the Western world. Art nouveau jewelry had curves, sinuous
organic lines of romantic and imaginary dreaminess.
It was very
ethereal turning into winged bird and flower forms. French, René
Lalique was the master goldsmith of the era of Art Nouveau producing
exquisite one off pieces. Today, the Art Nouveau style is still admired,
sought after, and copied.
Pearls
Various
combinations of pearl necklaces come in and out of fashion with
regularity so pearls too are a must. Today pearls are still a wardrobe
essential. Both faux pearls and cultured pearls are very affordable
today.
Since the opening of trade with China in the 1990s, many
pearls are imported from China dropping the price to about 1/3 of what
it was prior to China entering the market.
The Japanese have
suffered disease in their pearl beds as well as facing competition and
are finding it hard to compete with China's prices.
Pearl
necklaces and pearl earrings can lift a complexion and bring light and
radiance to the face taking years off a woman whatever her age. They
have been a wardrobe staple for centuries, and a wedding attire
tradition.
Cultured pearls have become very affordable, and faux
pearls are very cheap and the quality can be excellent. Currently
Pearls are a very "hot" fashion statement and with the modern twist of
being interspaced on gold wire or floating on special synthetic cord
they are essential to the millennium look.
Cocktail Jewelry
During
the 1920s Lalique mass produced and designed high quality glass
jewelry. Fake, or costume jewellery was sometimes then called cocktail
jewelry.
Costume or Cocktail jewelry was greatly influenced by
designers such as Coco Chanel, and Elsa Shiparelli as well as a host of
other designers. These two designers were particularly known for
encouraging clients to mix their fine jewelry and costume jewelry. Both
designers offered imagination and fun and both often sported fabulous
fakes.
In the late 1930s Napier of the USA was at the forefront of
manufacturing fake cocktail jewelry offer glamour and escapism. Today,
Napier still produces excellent contemporary costume pieces.
Hollywood Influence
By
the 1940s and 1950s American culture was very dominant in Europe. The
influence of movie films and the prominence of film stars set the
fashion stage for womens make-up, hair and wardrobe.
People wanted
copies of outfits and jewelry worn by the actresses. Women believed
that the glamour of Hollywood would rub off on them if they dressed and
looked like the glamorous Hollywood actresses.
During the Second
World War metals were rationed, halting the production of fine jewelry.
Quality costume jewelry picked up the now defunct fine jewelry market.
Costume jewelry flourished becoming an acceptable alternative to fine
jewelry.
1980's Television Influences Jewelry
1980's Television Influences Jewelry
During the
1980s with the evolution of glitzy television soaps such as Dynasty and
Dallas, costume jewelry once again became a "hot" fashion statement.
With over 250 million viewers, it didn't take long for costume jewelry
to be reborn.
Glitz and sparkle by day was not only acceptable, it
became the norm. Earrings grew to an unbelievable size, as did other
pieces of jewelry. By the 1990s this sparkly dazzling jewelry phenomena
was dead, replace with tiny real diamond studs or a fine stud pearls.
21st Century Jewelry
For
the 21st century women believe a mix is good. Fine jewelry combined
with costume jewelry are wardrobe essentials. The sophisticated women
of this century know what they want from their jewelry and how to wear
it to make their fashion statement.
They recognize that costume
jewelry can liven up their wardrobe. The types and quality of costume
jewelry has grown enormously. Today one can purchase what is classified
as fine costume jewelry which is usually plated at least seven times
with 10 22 ct gold.
Swarovski crystal set in gold are common
accessories, and cubic zirconium, man's imitation diamond, can be
purchased for a fraction of the cost of real diamonds allowing every
women to add diamond styled jewelry to their wardrobe.
Ciro,
Adrian Buckley, Butler and Wilson, Swarovski Crystal Jewelry Napier,
Joan Rivers, Joan Collins, Christian Dior, California Crystal, Property
of A Lady and of course Kenneth J Lane to name just a few continue to
produce high quality fashion jewelry for today's women.
Costume
jewelry can take you from the board room to a night out of dining and
dancing to your most intimate evening. It can make you look your best
for your wedding, or a day at the beach. You can make Your Fashion
Statement With Costume Jewelry!
Sher from
Estate Jewelry International has been serving customers for over 20
years, providing fashion, jewelry, and wedding help. So stop by and
visit us at http://www.estatejewelryinternational.com/ We'll help you make your fashion statement! Remember looking good doesn't have to cost a fortune!
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